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Mera & Island Peak via Amphu Labsta

  • Duration: 30 DAYS / 29 NIGHTS
  • Trip Type: Mountaineering
  • Max People: 10
  • Arrival/Departure: Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Availability : March & October
  • Trip Grade: Grade 9: Intermediate Mountaineering
  • Min Age: 15+
  • Lodging:3 nights hotel, 26 nights camping
Tour Details

Mera (6476m/21,246ft) & Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) are two of the most popular trekking peaks in the Nepal Himalaya and this expedition combines climbs on both mountains with a trek through the remote Honku Valley and a crossing of the spectacular and technical Amphu Laptsa Pass. The generous itinerary ensures proper acclimatisation and we have plenty of contingency days in the event of inclement weather. Being slightly to the south of the main range, Mera offers spectacular views from Kanchenjunga in the east to the Langtang region in the west. Island Peak is situated right in the heart of the Khumbu area and although it is dwarfed by the enormous Lhotse Face to the north, the views from the summit are truly exceptional.

Non-exclusive trips:

On selected departures, this trip is not exclusive to Rogue Adventures, and you will be joining a group of 2 – 8 adventurers from around the world.

At a Glance

Day 1            JOIN KATHMANDU


Day 2           GEAR CHECK AND DRIVE TO RAMECHAP (APPROX 5 HOURS)


Day 3           FLY TO LUKLA (2800M) & COMMENCE TREKKING TO PUIYAN (APPROX 2800M) 


Day 4           TREK TO PANGOM (2800M)


Day 5           NASHING DINGMA (2600M)


Day 6           CHALEM KHARKA (3600M)


Day 7           CHUNBU KHARKA (4200M)


Day 8           REST DAY AT CHUNBU KHARKA


Day 9           TO HINKU VALLEY CAMP (APPROX 3600M)


Day 10          TO TAGNAG (4400M)


Day 11           ACCLIMATIZATION DAY/PREPARATIONS


Day 12-13     TO BASE CAMP (5000M) AND PREPARATION DAY


Day 14-16     SUMMIT ATTEMPT ON MERA (6476M)


Day 17           REST & CONTINGENCY DAY


Day 18-19     COMMENCE TREK INTO THE HUNKU VALLEY


Day 20          REST DAY


Day 21-22     CROSS AMPHU LAPTSA (5845M) TO ISLAND PEAK BASE CAMP (5100M)


Day 23           CONTINGENCY DAY


Day 24           SUMMIT ISLAND PEAK


Day 25-27     TREK TO NAMCHE BAZAAR


Day 28           TREK TO LUKLA (8-9HRS)


Day 29           FLY TO RAMECHAP AND DRIVE TO KATHMANDU


Day 30           TRIP CONCLUDES IN KATHMANDU


 

Included in Trip Price
Excluded from Trip Price

29 breakfasts, 27 lunches and 27 dinners
Rogue Adventures mountaineering leader
Rogue Adventures trek pack which includes a quality sleeping bag, down or fibre fill jacket and insulated mat
World Expeditions duffle bag
Climbing pack including ice axe, crampons harness and helmet
Airport transfers if arriving on day 1 and 30 or if you booked pre/post tour
Accommodation at the Radisson through Rogue Adventures
Flight Ramechap/Lukla/Ramechap approx.
25kgs luggage allowance on Kathmandu/Lukla flights
Safety equipment including portable altitude chamber, group medical, satellite phone and oxygen cylinder for emergency use
Private transportation
All park entrance fees and trekking permits
Porters to carry personal and group equipment and porter’s insurance

Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
Bottled water, aerated & alcoholic drinks
Items of a personal nature such as phone calls, laundry, etc.
Tips
International Airfares
Airline taxes and charges
Visas
Travel Insurance

What to Expect

You will be woken with a cup of tea brought to your tent around 6:30am, followed by a small bowl of warm water for washing. Before breakfast you pack your gear into your kit bag which is then taken by the pack‐animals or porters and will not be available to you until you reach camp that afternoon. After a wholesome breakfast we are usually on the trail between 7.30 – 8am, depending upon the duration and nature of the day’s walk. We will walk for around 3‐4 hours and then generally break for lunch for about 1 hour. Some of our staff will walk ahead and select a suitable place to stop. The afternoon walk is generally a little shorter and camp is usually reached by around 3.30 ‐ 4.30 pm.

Once we have reached camp and the kitchen is set up, afternoon tea will be prepared. From then until dinner there is time to rest or explore the surrounding area. Dinner is usually served between 6‐7 pm. Remember to bring your headlamp and your water bottles to the dining tent so they can be filled with boiling water. Trekking evenings afford some of the best memories of your trek, whether it is talking, playing cards, chatting with the crew or joining in some singing and dancing with the local people. Much of the enjoyment of an expedition is in the journey itself.

Itinerary

Day 1

You will be met by a representative of Rogue Adventures and transferred to the Radisson hotel. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure. A pre‐trek briefing will be given around 4.30‐5pm where arrangements will be made for the distribution of your kit bag, sleeping bag and down/fibrefill jacket. This evening we will head out for dinner, this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with your fellow group members.
Overnight: Radisson Hotel

Day 2

This morning final gear checks will be held and afterwards we will depart for Thamel where any necessary items will be hired, ie plastic boots, or purchased. After the gear check we will depart for Ramechap, a small town that operates flights to Lukla, the gateway of trekking in the Khumbu region. Our campsite will be in close proximity to the runway for our early morning flight to Lukla.
Overnight: Private eco‐camp
* NB: At time of writing, flights from 1 December 2019 remain operational from Kathmandu to Lukla. This situation is subject to change and your leader will brief you on flight arrangements locally.

Day 3

An early start to the airport to catch the 45 minute flight to the STOL airstrip at Lukla. It is a memorable flight, with marvelous views of the Eastern Himalaya. Our crew and porters assemble, loads are sorted and after a cup of tea, we are soon on our way down a trail below the air strip to the river at Surke Khola, which brings us adjacent to the racing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi. Our route takes a southerly direction along old trade routes, a trail of farm settlements growing subsistence crops such as millet, corn and buckwheat and then as we trek higher, into stands of oaks, maple and rhododendron.

Day 4

We follow the main trail briefly before turning up a path that leads into the forest and traverses around many ridges to the valley of the Kari Khola. Although our camp elevations are similar for the last days, we are undulating over two major ridges, the Chutok La (2945m) and the Khari La (3080m). As we approach Pangum, set in the base of a small bowl like valley immediately below the Pangum La, we travel through forests of rhododendron, pines and oaks. This is a little known trail used only by the local families and apart from a couple of small settlements along the way we see little evidence of human activity. Pangum is a very old settlement little changed, with a new gompa and expansive views out over the valley.

Day 5

We climb the half hour or so to the Pangum La (3175m) and our gateway toward the Hinku Valley, and now start to head eastward and then in a northerly direction. Today is a solid descent to the Hinku River of at least 900 metres depending on which path we take, and then a climb up to our camp high on the other side near the Surke La. We are once again traveling through a mix of terraced slopes containing grain crops interspersed by undisturbed forests of the upper temperate zone; maples, rhododendrons and fir.

Day 6

Climbing up to the Surke La (3085m) we now follow the spine of the Surkie Danda ridge northwards towards Mera and the Hinku and camp part way along at a yak herders clearing or ‘kharka’. These next few days are far from teahouse and trekkers trails and should be some of the finest Himalayan wilderness trekking of the trip.

Day 7

Continuing along the ridge, we climb higher and higher over knolls (lumps in the ridge) of 4000 metres and then 4500 metres. The terrain has now elevated well above the tree line and is grassy slopes and rocky outcrops and cliffs, where birds of prey may be seen flying overhead such as Griffon vulture, lammergeier or eagles. We then descend to a camp set near a series of five lakes, Panch Pokhari, set beside the river of the Chunbu Drangka.

Day 8

This is a good time in the program to have a rest day and a lovely natural setting to explore further.

Day 9

Our route now contours around many ridges on the eastern side of the Hinku, descending lower into forests of rhododendron and scree. Near the valley floor we encounter the devastation caused by a natural damn at the head of the valley bursting in 1998. The valley has been destroyed, leaving boulders, dead trees and silt where once there were old growth forests and meadows. Our campsite is on a pleasant grassy patch, on the now much higher bank of the rocky riverbed.

Day 10

We are now in the Hinku Valley proper, and cross over by way of a yak herders bridge and join the main trail. The first settlement we pass is the busy village of Kote, primarily servicing the trekking groups that come through for Mera. As a result of the tremendous washout of boulders and debris, the trail follows the riverbed mostly, a good trail among rounded stones and silt. We gain our first views of dramatic peaks of the valley; Kusum Kanguru to our left and an unnamed peak over 6700m that stands directly before us. The path then weaves up on to the pastures on the left hand side and pleasant easy trails through to Tagnag. Today we also enjoy our first views of Mera, initially at the confluence of the Sanu Drangka above Kote, if the weather is clear we see the dramatic south face, and then on our final approach into Tagnag. We are now among mountains and starting to prepare for our climb.

Day 11

Tagnag is a location to have an acclimatisation day and we will prepare and check our climbing gear also. There are many good ridges and slopes to trek up for a few hours and spend valuable time acclimatising ourselves at these greater heights. We aim to gain at least 500 metres following a ridge behind the village as a side excursion on this day. There are views of peaks towards Kusum Kanguru and across towards Mera.

Day 12-13

A steady approx 4hr climb out of the valley and up through lateral moraine and grassy culverts to our last camp below the snowline. Enroute we will be able to glimpse the remains of the Lake (Sabai Tsho) that has caused so much damage. It is directly fed by some massive, almost vertical glaciers and it is suspected that there was an enormous avalanche of ice into the lake, and subsequently, a wave that broke through the loose rocks forming the wall on it’s far side. A day is set aside for further preparations for the climb, rehearsal of using harness, crampons and axe, and travelling roped up etc. All members will not travel up on to the mountain and glacier without being briefed and skilled beforehand.

Whilst the route itself is fairly straightforward, there are objective hazards and good basic technique and awareness of changing conditions is vital for every individual. Your guide will supervise the entire proceedings on the mountain, from the route taken and timings, and equipment required (we only take what we need for the climb, and the rest of your gear remains at base) through to people’s fitness (mental and physical) to proceed. This means that the guides decision is final; he or she is responsible for everyone’s safety and well being throughout the expedition, and no compromise will be made on these aspects.

Day 14-16

All going to plan and the weather on our side, we will move up to a rock and glaciated camp just off the Mera La saddle at approx 5400m. Plastic mountaineering boots are usually worn from base through to the summit bid and return. Whilst they feel clumsy they are perfect for the job, providing warmth, protection and stabilityfor the variable terrain including loose rocks, snow and ice. Another camp is set half way up the long north slope of the mountain, at about 5700m near a rock knob. Although it is a shorter distance here, it can be difficult in poor conditions and you are at altitude and is harder and further than it first appears.

The summit bid will commence early in the morning (anywhere from 2 to 5am) from this high camp, and take around 4 to 6 hours to make the summit. Whilst the distance doesn’t look far, we can assure you it will be hard work, and all the preparations and a positive, tempered attitude will pay off here. It is usually necessary to rope up for much of the summit approach due to crevasse hazards along the route. The route can vary depending on the conditions of the season but usually skirts around a major shoulder in front of us to the back side of the mountain and then traverse in a fairly straightforward approach to the summit knob. As the light comes, we enjoy incredible views across to Baruntse (7129m), Chamlang (7319m) and Nau Lekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind. Further to our left is Everest, Cho Oyu and in the distance on a clear day, Kangchenjunga.

Please note that due to the unstable nature of the northern summit knob, it is highly likely that we will ascend the central summit (6461m) of Mera. The exact schedule will depend on many factors, including the weather, condition of the route and condition of the members. Our contingency of equipment and experienced staff and a time buffer, gives us a fair amount of flexibility to achieve success for all who have worked hard from the beginning of the expedition. The day will be long, and this is where all the training beforehand, the trek approach, and the right attitude will combine to give you stamina and confidence to be part of a sound team, with optimum chances for the summit.

Day 17

Today is set aside for a well earned rest and contingency day. We will make our last minute preparations to exit via the difficult Amphu Laptsa which takes us to the Khumbu Valley and our next objective ‐ Island Peak. From our camp we have spectacular views into the Hinku and towards the La. These high alpine passes will require the use of crampons, ice axes and ropes and it will be necessary for our staff to reconnoiter our route and fix ropes for some sections to ensure safe passage. For members, it will provide invaluable time to further prepare for our long day ahead…checking gear, familiarising one’s self with appropriate climbing gear and resting before an early start the next day.

Logistically pass crossings are always at a much larger scale than peak climbs, as all crew, porters, supplies and equipment, as well as members will be passing through the alpine terrain and a safe, methodical procedure is required for every load and party member. This takes time and your commitment and contribution as part of the team is absolutely vital.

Day 18-19

We will need to make a relatively early start today. Once our porters are organised we will commence our most remote stages of the expedition. We descend into the Honku valley near to five large glacial lakes which sprawl out before us. They are known as Panch Pokhari (five lakes). The Amphu Laptsa pass is situated immediately at the head of the valley to our right and is basically the low point on the ridge between the Hunku and the Imja valleys. For this day or so we are in the Hunku.

A new vista of peaks span out before us including Ama Dablam to the distant westward, and many unnamed peaks. Camp is set close to the rocks that lead up to the pass. On these stages we ask that members be flexible and co‐operative. Camps will be set where conditions allow, and your Rogue Adventures leader will keep you advised as to each days plan.

Day 20

Final preparations and gear checks for our pass crossing.

Day 21-22

An alpine start for our pass crossing. Once again, ferrying across all our loads together with all party members, crew, porters and members takes time. The approach to the pass from the Hunku is deceptive. Facing east and southward there is much more sun and little snow, just a collection of rocks that gradually lead up to the gap we travel through. On the north facing side we find steep slopes of snow that we must take care to descend by fixed ropes to the snow basins below and subsequent moraine and alpine valley beyond. The views from this 5780m pass crossing to the peaks of Khumbu are unmatched. Any spare moment one may have whilst we are climbing and descending will allow one to appreciate the spectacle of the peaks of the region.

Day 23

Final preparations and a check of snow and weather conditions before attempting the summit of Island Peak.

Day 24

An alpine start sees us climbing steeply up the lower flanks of the south‐east face. The track is well used as this is a popular peak. At times there is a bit of rock scrambling and the rocky spur takes us to a snow ramp that leads to the upper snow fields. The peaks of Makalu and Lhotse come into view as we climb higher. Upon crossing the upper neve, it is necessary to fix ropes up a short but steep ice face that leads on to the summit ridge. The summit ridge is a classic alpine ridge and quite exposed, (we fix ropes here also) and traverse our way to the summit. Although Island Peak appears dwarfed by the seven and eight thousanders surrounding it, it provides a magnificent vantage point to all the peaks south of the stupendous Lhotse face. After some exhilarating moments on the summit we descend by the same route to our base.

Day 25-27

We begin our exit trek descending through the famous Khumbu Valley to Namche Bazaar. Namche is known as the Sherpa capital and it is a great place to wonder around, visit the Tibetan stalls or enjoy the Swiss bakeries. Our accommodation will be at our private eco campsite.

Day 28

Today is long day of trekking however all members will be extremely fit by this time. We descend the slopes of Namche to the Dudh Kosi joining the main trail to follow at riverside through numerous villages to Phakding. On crossing the bridge, we trek a short distance up and around, to the broad flat spur that Lukla lies upon. The last night is always memorable for an end of trip celebration with all the crew and porters.

Day 29

We start the day with a scenic flight to Ramechap over forests and villages with the Himalayas forming a stunning backdrop. On arrival, we will start our journey back to Kathmandu and the Radisson Hotel. The rest of the day will be at your leisure; you can choose to relax or enjoy some last minute shopping and sightseeing.
Overnight: Radisson hotel or similar

Day 30

The trip concludes after breakfast with a transfer to the airport or other arrangements as planned.

Trip Extensions

Suggested Extensions

Chitwan Safari
Kathmandu to Delhi

Map
Geography and Weather
Country Information
Weather

People from all walks of life are drawn to Nepal to experience the incredible Himalaya. Whether it is witnessing the windswept summits of the world’s highest mountains, an early morning visit to a monastery high in the Himalaya, or sipping on a cup of warm Nepali tea with your trekking crew as you watch the sunrise over the mountains, we are sure you will find your adventure in Nepal with Rogue Adventures inspiring and rewarding. Far from the rush of the modern world, and in the delightful company of our trek crew, you will settle into a daily rhythm in the mountains that is immensely enjoyable. Our dedicated and experienced crew will take excellent care of you, helping you to relax, stay healthy and enjoy the beauty of Nepal. Their warmth and openness will give you an insight into their culture that will add a deeper dimension to your adventure. The camaraderie within your group that gradually develops on the trail, and the unexpected friendships you form with the locals you meet, will be highlights of travelling in this wonderful country.

Nepal’s population of around 30 million people practice a blend of Hindu, Buddhist and traditional animist religion. While Nepal is a predominantly rural society, with 90% of the population living outside metropolitan areas, Kathmandu is rapidly urbanizing with a population of around 1 million. With over 100 different ethnic groups and languages, and an unparalleled concentration of World Heritage Sites in the Kathmandu Valley, Nepal offers a fascinating cultural tapestry like few places on earth.

Our trekking season in Nepal extends from mid‐September to May. However within this period there are clear seasons in the weather. Trekking in Nepal during winter, from December to February, offers cool to mild and clear days with often very cold nights. Occasionally winter storms can bring snow as low as 2500m. In March the cold, dry winter season begins to give way to warmer, spring conditions. Mornings are usually clear with cloud build‐up occasionally bringing afternoon rain. Late spring conditions, in May, are generally hot at low elevations and as the clouds build up to the next monsoon which generally begins in June, daily afternoon rainstorms are common. This is a period that generally has clear weather at the higher altitudes and is traditionally a time when mountaineering expeditions commence their ascents.

The monsoon creates a rainy season in Nepal, which lasts from mid‐June to mid‐September. During this time the Nepal Himalaya is unsuitable for trekking, with the exception of a few remote valleys. Rogue Adventures offers treks during this period in Tibet, the Indian Himalayan regions of Kulu, Garhwal & Ladakh, Central Asia and Pakistan, places that are at their best during this time.

The post‐monsoon period ‐ From early September the monsoon rain starts to decrease. By mid‐October through to mid‐December the weather is usually stable with mild to warm days, cold nights and clear views. Daytime temperatures can reach 25 ‐ 30 degrees Celsius at lower altitudes and decrease as you gain height. Over 3000 meters the daytime temperatures can vary as much as 10 to 20 degrees Celsius, and may be hotter or colder, depending on whether it is sunny or windy etc. At night at lower altitudes, temperatures do not normally drop much, although as you approach November it does get colder and the days shorter. Up high it can drop sharply at night, from 0 to minus 10 or 15 and more when camped on the ice or snow.

The pre‐monsoon period ‐ In March the cold, dry winter season begins to give way to warmer, wetter spring conditions. Mornings are usually clear with cloud build‐up bringing occasional afternoon rainstorms. Views of the mountains in the middle of the day and afternoon may often be obscured. Daytime temperatures increase quickly in March with temperatures of up to 30 degrees Celsius and mild nights. At higher altitudes it is similar to the conditions of the post‐monsoon period, however there is usually more snow, which has accumulated over the winter period. There are spectacular displays of rhododendrons and wildflowers at this time of year. Late spring conditions ie April and May, are generally hot at low elevations and as the clouds build up to the next monsoon, daily afternoon rainstorms are common.

Photos
Other Rogue Adventures Information
Dietary Requirements
Porters
Equipment
Visas
Private Groups

Provided we are advised in advance of your departure we are able to cater for vegetarian diets and can assist with medically recommended diets (allergies and intolerances). Please ensure you discuss your requirements with us well in advance (at least 1 month prior to your trip) to determine whether we can cater to such dietary requirements on your chosen adventure. Please note that options are likely to be limited in very remote locations or alternatives may be more expensive or unavailable. There may be times when those with special requirements may need to provide their own food. We are unable to guarantee a peanut‐free or allergen‐free trip, and therefore, we strongly encourage that travelers with life‐threatening or severe allergies take all necessary medical precautions to prepare for the possibility of exposure. Passengers must travel with all necessary medications for food allergies and be capable of self‐administering these medications.

Porters are an integral part of the Rogue Adventures philosophy and style of travel. We take our travellers off‐the‐beaten track, avoiding the congested trails, to experience our often remote tent‐based adventures … this style of trekking is enabled by porters. When we trek, the entire group ‐ travellers, guides and porters alike ‐ are a team who share the same needs for safety in the mountain environment. Our Himalaya porters receive the following:

*A good working wage that is regulated by the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal and the Labour Union of Nepal. We pay per their guidelines, which are unionised.

*We are one of the only trekking companies in Nepal to provide our porters with three meals a day, prepared by our cooks.

*We are one of the only trekking companies in Nepal to provide our porters with lodging or tents, sleeping mats and blankets.

*Porters also receive life insurance and income protection insurance.

*Access to same first aid care that our travellers receive including emergency helicopter evacuation if required.

*Porters are provided with wind and waterproof jacket and over‐trousers, 2 pairs of woollen socks, 2 pair of leather shoes on long treks and 2 pairs of canvas shoes while on short treks, woollen gloves, warm cap, sunglasses, mattress and blanket and tent / lodge.

*Porters are not to carry more then 30kgs.
*The minimum age for a Porter is 16 and the maximum age is 50 years old.

Rogue Adventures supports the good work of a number of international organisations that operate to ensure the health and education of porters, they are:

International Porter Protection Group >> www.ippg.net
International Mountain Explorers Connection >> www.mountainexplorers.org Kilimanjaro Guide Scholarship Foundation Inc. >> www.kiliguides.org

Specialist gear required include walking boots and day pack (a comprehensive gear list is provided in the pre‐departure information provided on booking).

In your daypack you will need to carry extra warm clothing (depending on the altitude, location and weather), a rainjacket, water bottle, camera gear, valuables and personal items such as sunscreen, lip‐eze etc. Porters and mules carry all group gear and your trek pack. There may be times when your leader will request you carry extra equipment such as sleeping bag, sleeping mat and extra warm clothes in case of inclement weather conditions and the possibility of being caught out away from camp. It is very important that you follow the gear list recommendations found in the pre‐departure information document. You will need a back pack which is big enough to carry these additional items ‐ we recommend a minimum of 55 litres capacity.

 

The adventures featured in our brochures, and on our website, are just a starting point for many of our private group travelers. Working closely with our Groups Department we can organise custom designed itineraries for groups of friends, clubs, charity’s, schools or even work colleagues. Our team will assist you with all aspects of your private group adventure from itinerary design to group flights. Contact our team today.

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